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Similar problem.....

the biggest challenge is to isolate where the leakage is coming from. To do this, it is best to strip the system down to the least number of components and have a way to test for leakage.

Frankly, start with the older gear first - the MX-110. Since the primary side of the transformer is not connected anywhere to ground except through the line caps (there's 2 in a single package by the AC connectors), this is a good place to start. If you have a GFI outlet in the garage, use this to determine if sufficient current is flowing in the chassis:

- Plug the MX-110 into the GFI outlet
- Set your DVM to AC Volts
- Connect one probe to the chassis and the other to the safety ground lug at the outlet. Take a reading.
- Now, reverse the plug and measure again. Note the reading.
- Next, switch to AC amps, if you can on your meter.
- Connect the probes again as above and take a reading. (Hint: if the GFI pops its safety breaker at this point, you have a problem.)

Do this with all the gear you have. That should help you get started.

My bets are on the MX-110 as I had a similar problem with tingly feelings when connecting/reconnecting things. I installed a 3-prong AC cord on it when the old one frayed badly from a dog's chewing interest and discovered that it would trip a GFI breaker. After a long and winding path of diagnosis, I discovered there was 30vAC riding on the chassis and it would kick off the breaker due to the new cord being installed. The AC line cap replacement on the primary side didn't help at all either. Turns out that the transformer was passing the AC into the metal housing. I determined this by carefully isolating the primary winding. This was done by raising the transformer enough to slide cardboard between it and the case while monitoring chassis voltages. It runs again after a visit to the rewinder.

Hope that's not your problem but I did get a lesson in isolating some nasty problems that cause ground faults.

Cheers,

David


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