|
Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ. |
|
|
|
Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ. |
|
In Reply to: Finished A Pair Of Cabines. Questions About Tablesaws posted by Mister Pig on January 14, 2006 at 10:19:36:
As you have discovered, the rip fence can make or break an otherwise good table saw. Craftsman saws of the 80's and 90's, especially the contractor saws, were renown for their crappy fences. I know because I used to have one. Getting the fence set parallel was an exercise in aggravation.Depending on how much you want to spend, I'd consider a belt drive 10", 1.5hp contractor saw from DeWalt, Jet, or Delta as a minimum. They all have enough power for most applications as well as good rip fences. A disadvantage to a contractor saw is poor dust control. Expect to pay about $600.00. I don't know if they have changed some of their design features, but initially I'd avoid Craftsman. The saws like yours do not have a standard width slot for the mitre gauge and the arbors were too short for a stacked dado head. In addition, Sears exaggerates the HP on all of their tools.
Some of the new hybrid saws from Jet and Delta are pretty interesting. They bridge the gap between the contractor and tilt arbor cabinet saws like the Deltas, Jets, and Powermatics. They'll run about $800-$1000.00.
The ultimate choice would be a cabinet saw. Plenty of power, smooth running, and excellent dust control make these saws the centerpiece of a well-equipped woodshop. They'll set you back $14000-$2200.00.
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Follow Ups
- What's your budget? - B. King 01/14/0613:09:59 01/14/06 (0)
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2025, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
