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Do It Yourself (DIY) paradise for tube and SET project builders.

RE: not worthy ...

You have got to understand where your
detractors are coming from.

Most of them are into fixed-bias (unreliable),
1950's style tube amplification.

They believe all the old tube charts, even
though they have a really hard time getting
all the power the tube mfr's hinted at,
but never proved in the amp owner's
equipment.

A very few are into higher power SE tube
amps, but never realized that conventional
power supply technology is dead-wrong for
them. It was designed for P/P amps.

People still ignore the extreme importance
of mounting components very close to the usage
point-- something that doesn't make nice
pictures, but can be built rugged AND have
a wide musical bandwidth as well.

But it doesn't look like a clean P/P amp
layout-- and it can't if it's to compete
with the best amplifiers out there.

Low-DCR power sources are a make-or-break
item for a good SE amp. That's because only
one output tube is doing the signal sampling
for the speaker. No, such a P.S. design
won't satisfy people who try to splice
push/pull power supplies onto a SE amp.
The results are always dismal.

In a small SE amp, driver grid admittance
is of extreme importance. The higher you run the driver
plate current, the more of a "tuner" you are building.
The key here is to LISTEN to what is happening and
work with different values until you get it right,
commensurate with what the tube can run for a long
time with no problems.

Very few tubes that can actually perform well under
this requirement were ever made. The ones that do work
deliver stunning results.

There's always more, but just don't let them get
you down, they're selling tomatoes-- you might like Peaches.

-Dennis-
.




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