In Reply to: Re: Lordy...are you saying...and in the SAME ROOM? posted by nilemi on January 8, 2002 at 09:57:10:
The AER Mk1 may not be suitable for the Oris 150 (I dunno, I'm using DX3's), but it shouldn't sound "bad", just not as good as other drivers. 'Sucks' is just not in the picture...Thus, I suspect some other system problems, probably due to poor bass integration. Do not underestimate the impact of the bass cabinet, amp and crossover on the sound of the Oris. There is a huge amount of information below 160Hz and it will really make the horn sound bad if you're not careful.
The midbass module must be able to reach up to 220Hz or so or you'll get a really thin, shouty midrange. If you're using a typical subwoofer instead of a midbass unit thats your problem - end of story.
The horns should be allowed to rolloff naturally, which will be around 160-180Hz, depending on the driver. The midbass should have around a 160-180Hz/12dB/oct rolloff, and the signal to the woofer should be inverted or you'll get midbass suckout. Finally, you need to acoustically align the bass module drivers with the AERs to lose the muddy, slow bass effect (move it forward and back while listening).
The horns are easily 107db/watt efficient (maybe more with the AERs) and if your midbass cabinet/amp combo can't keep up with them you'll get that nasty midrange again. I use DIY LaScala midbass cabinets with Klipsch K33E drivers and a Citation V PP tube amp with a tube xover. I started with a SS amp on the midbass and it sounded bad. Switching to tubes warmed the entire sound up tremendously. I would get tubes for the horns and the midbass if you biamp (I run 2A3's on the horns).
So - chances are your Oris/AER can sound really great but you've not given it the chance because of a less than optimal midbass setup.
Good luck,
Pete Fowler, Austin TX
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Follow Ups
- Some ways to hose up an Oris system... - petef 01/9/0209:37:36 01/9/02 (1)
- Regarding AER /ORIS at VSAC... - Bob Purkiewicz 13:07:07 01/9/02 (0)