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Re: Rega P3 woes and flutter resolved (and how much is a drop, anyway?)

Hi theewall...(sorry about spelling)

My experience with Thorens TD165 told me that you should use medium to light weight oil, exactly the opposite of what you use (80W you say) previously.

I have tried from gear oil (75W90 API GL-4/5 Synthetic) to Castrol Syntec to sewing machine oil to regular motor oil but it seems to me that a blend of 3-in-one SAE20 oil (red can I believe) with the lighter weight 3-in-one oil (black can called" household oil" or something). a ratio of 1 drops of SAE20 to 3 drops of "black can" is fine and that give the texture and consistency of what Linn uses in their LP-12 (yes, I also own a LP-12). This combo gives the best of both world: not too thin to excert too much pressure on the bearing wall,yet not too thick to the point where it creates a hydro "drag" caused by thick oil.

TO clean out your old oil takes quite a bit of patience my friend> Here's how I clean mine:

If your spindle shaft seat/holder is pressed onto the base then you may have to remove all the ancillaries forst (arm, cartridge, platteer, etc.) and pull off the spindle shaft and flip your turntable up-side-down with some thick paper towel to catch any dripping oil (no, you wife/GF may not like turntable lube stains afterall). Next, depending on the amount of patience you have (I'll separate this into 2 part: (a) being the most time-consuming yet the most complete; (B) is the "quickie" way.
)
(a) "time consuming" way:After taking off your spindle shaft check to see the inner lining and the shaft body for wear.If you see scouring and scratching the surface across with your finger nail makes it "catch" means that your shaft is worn. If not check the inner holder to see what kind of inner lining it composes of: if it's "oilite" (aka bronze copper lining) then you will have to use some kind of thinner/solvent to clean out the gunk that is trapped inside the porous surface of the bearing. You may use some very light weight (sewing machine oil) to fill the shafter holder close to the brim, wait a few days and drain it and refill. Repeat until the color of the oil coming out from the shaft holder is not longer dark (close to the original sewing machine oil color). Then you drain it off completely (or leave it up-side-down securely overnight). Next day add about 2~3 drops of SAE 20 oil into the the well and use a clean cotton swap to soak some 20 oil and "wet" the shaft body completely (lightly is fine, don't make it "drippy").Again before you "wet " the shaft surface make sure you clean it carefully to make sure ti's free of gunk/oil/grit/debris. You may now stick it in abd put everything back and enjoy.

(b) "Quick" and dirty way: use camping fuel (aka paraffin) to dissolve the gunk from "oillite' bearing but filling it and stir it with a long cotton swap. Rince-and-fill a few times until you are certain that the color comes out clean. Let it air dry for 24~48 hours before you relube the well again. Use 1 drops of SAE 20 oil +3 drops of household oil combination and add 3 drops into the well (also wet the inner bearing surface well with long cotton swap). Repeat the "wetting" of the shaft as mentioned before and put everything back. You are ready to go.

If you happened to have something like a Linn LP-12 with nylon inner bearing sleeve your best bet is to first clean off the shaft and the inner well with cotton swap. Try soaking up as much remaining oil from the shaft well bottom as possible (electronic parts shops often carries extended wooden cotton/synthetic chamois swap). Next proceed with the 1 dropp SAE 20 + 3 drops household oil formula and add 3 drops into the well, making sure you have "wet" the inner sleeve surface thoroughly with the mixture (use a cotton swap if needed, don't use finger!!). Wet the shaft surface as mentioned before and put everything back like before. Enjoy!

DO not use motor oil or 80W gear oil (I know it's tempting to "suckered" into the synthetic hype but trust me: we are not using it on extreme-duty, high torque high wear appilcations here like our cars). The main purpose of the oil used in the shaft is to be "thick " enough to maintain a "hydro-wedge" action between the shaft surface and the inner bearing surface, suspend them from contacting each other creating wear, yet "thin " enough to be able to microscopically "circulate" in an "oillite" bearing sleeve (between pressed copper/bronze particles)

*whew* first long post after being "dormant" for a while.


Take care!
Quest

PS: when buying camping fuel and using it as solvent make sure you are not getting something that comes with "extra" additive like rust inhibitor. Try Exxon/Esso "Isol" or Rechochem brand of camping fuel (the plain type). I have the best luck with Rechochem and "Isol" so far: from cleaning antique watch mechanisms to turntable shaft to anything possible. Avoid Coleman camping fuel for they come with tonnes of additives that may hurt yoru turntable.


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